Have you ever had difficulties buying a good lingerie bra for transforming into a costume? You are not alone! Practically every dancer I’ve ever talked to has had trouble finding a bra to really fit well at the price-point they want. Over the years, I have had many costumers write to me with burning questions about buying lingerie bras to rework and use as costume bases. Here are a few of the most common.

Try a 38D - Believe it or not, you can move one size up or down the bra size scale if you increase band/decrease cup and vice versa. So if you are a 36B, you can also try 34C or 38A. You may find that while the band might be a little tight or a little loose, the bra cups fit better. Also, keep in mind that your bust line changes over the course of your life. Even if you haven't gained or lost weight, you may have changed size as the density and consistancy of bust tissue changes with time.

This common problem is caused by wearing a bra with a band that is too loose around the ribs. It’s the band that supports the weight of your breasts, not the straps. So if your bust is sagging forward, chances are the band isn’t giving you the support you need. For larger bustlines, D cup or above, I recommend looking for styles that feature a 3 hook closure. One option is to look for strapless bra styles that are designed with wider heavy-duty bands. Look for wide, cusioned straps with minimal stretch to help hold everything in place.

Underwires provide support for the bust. Like a suspension bridge, the underwires provide a foundation for the sling-like cup. In order to function properly, the underwire needs to lie against your chest wall. If your underwires are on your bust-mound, rather than agaist your ribs, try a larger cup size. Also, look for a high spandex content in the bra band for the best strength, durability and comfort.

Some bra styles have wider cups, some have deeper cups and some have both. Each manufacturer has their own fitting system so the cut and style will fit differently depending on your bustline. Try on as many different styles and cuts as you can before settling on your bra. Buy the best quality you can afford.Remember, there are good bras at every price point. Even though you plan on buying your bra at the discount store, go for a test fit a major department store to compare. You never know when they will be having a sale.

Makesm Models and Styles

Here is a list of popular bra styles that are currently available in stores today. I've cruised the shops and have taken a good long look at the various makes and models and have evaluated them for their shape, structure, features and construction. This is by no means an exhaustive list and I’m sure that it will be quickly out of date. As of summer 2003, these are many of the models I would suggest using for a dance bra base.

Bali - Known for their flattering styles for fuller figures, Bali has produced some very flattering full-coverage styles that make excellent bases for converting to dance costumes. They have been making bras for over 70 years and really know what they are doing! They are now owned by Sara Lee corporation and Wonderbra is actually a division of Bali.

“Seductive Curves Deep Plunge Underwire” #3270
Stretch foam plunge bra with full coverage cups and a shaped curving upper edge. The padded straps widen at the top of the shoulders, a comfortable detail. The cups are closely spaced to create a lush, kissing cleavage effect. Excellent support for the dancer with a fuller bustline. Available up to 42DD.

Delicates - The Delicates brand is the house brand of J. C. Penny's. J.C Penny used to carry the "Adonna" line, but switched to the name "Delicates" in the mid 90s. Their bras are well designed and very well made to fit comfortably, create a nice profile and last. These bras hold up well to repeated washings and for costuming purposes, the foam is dense and sturdy and won't buckle under heavy embellishments.

“Convertible Strapless Bra”
This style features a three-piece cup, which provides full coverage and lift for the bust. Good for making more vintage 1940s-1950s styles. Creates generous forward projection. This is an excellent style for stitching into an existing dance dress, or for building a new one. This convertible bra style is available from 34B to 44DD.

“Perfect Convertible T-Shirt Bra”
This is a great convertible bra with a wide V shaped bra with the options of rearranging the straps. The bra has a smooth shape with a slight stretch. The underwires are not as heavily tilted as in most plunge bras. Available up to a 38D.

Hanes Her Way- A company long known for their well-made underwear in basic, practical styles has a line of excellent bras. These durable and supportive bras offer the consumer a great value with a good construction at a low price-point. The less expensive lingerie division owned by Sara Lee corporation. This brand can be found inexpensively through their large chain of Legs-Hanes-Bali outlet stores.

“Body Creations” #G720
Stretch molded underwire cups offer a smoothly curving upper edge and full coverage of the bust mound. Modest dancers will like the feeling of more coverage provided by these bras. The center panel is thicker and more supportive and the straps are quite wide. This style is an excellent choice for a dancer with a fuller bust. Available up to a 38C.

Fredericks of Hollywood - Many dancers swear by Frederick’s as the only bra to use! They have been producing push-up bras since the 1950s. The Fredericks system of fit is slightly different than most brands, so I suggest visiting one of their stores to try them on. Off and on, Frederick’s has offered custom bra making services, although recently, I haven’t seen this on their website.

“Smooth Sensation Bra”
This is an excellent model that both pushes up and together for that kissing-cleavage effect. This bra is also available in larger sizes.

“Convertible Satin Ice” #51140
This is a great strapless/convertible bra which produces a great shape for dancers interested in that vintage 50’s silhouette. It’s got a nice wide band making it an excellent option for larger busted dancers and goes up to a size 42DD.

Just My Size - For more ample dancers, Just My Size has developed a line of foam underwire plunge bra cut for a fuller bust line. They have several models currently available that would work for transformation into dance costumes. Shop for JMS bras at Hanes outlet stores or mid-priced department stores.

“Stretch Foam Underwire” #1990
This stretch foam cup has a gently curving upper edge that flows from the strap and then down into the underwire in a smooth arc. The center panel is quite thick and wide to offer a fuller bustline ample support. These bras are lined in cotton for comfort and must be reinforced to prevent undue stretch. Available up to a 44DD.

Olga - This is a subsidiary of the lingerie giant Warnico. Olga bras are designed for many different body shapes and their line of full-figure supportive bras provide good shape and lift. Their bras seem to run a bit small, so be sure to try them on. I find them very durable and comfortable.

“Invisible Shapers” #33695
This convertible bra provides a lot of lift and a beautiful curving shape. This bra creates a great vintage shape and gives the designer a great fitting bra that you can install a wide variety of straps to. Available up to 38C in black and white.

Vasarette - This is a brand that is carried by both discount and midrange department stores. They have a wide variety of inexpensive bras in that $8 - $15 range. They tend to carry a lot of stylish colors and fabrications, and you can find models in unique and funky and fun colors. For their price, Vasarette bras offer the costumer a good value. They are durable and well made enough for a beginner or hobby level dancer who will not be using extremely heavy beading.

“Body Curves” #75205
This is a line of molded cup bras that are available in basic colors. The upper edge forms a straight line creating a V-shape that is flattering for most busts. The foam is mildly stretchy, but with added stabilization via interfacing or through fabric stiffener, this makes an excellent dance bra. Available up to a 38C.

Warners - This is a division of the huge lingerie corporation Warnaco. They are best known for their high quality, high-end durable underwear. Their bras are a bit more expensive, but if you find one that fits you, it will wear like iron!

“Nothing but Curves Push-Up” #1595
This bra has a really beautiful curving upper edge with a deep plunge. The underwires are well positioned and tilted so that they meet at the center front with a minimum of fabric. This is a fantastic bra, but sadly, will be going out of production at the end of the summer! Available in 34A to 38D.

Wonderbra - Practically every model of Wonderbra can be transformed into a dance bra. Stick to models that are foam, rather than air or water cushioned. I had the pleasure of checking out several styles including:

“Wonderboost” #14281D
Convertible Bra - Low plunge in front - Solid back band of cover fabric.
This bra is excellent for A-B cup dancers looking for a cleavage-enhancing bra. The closely spaced cups create a look of "kissing cleavage." The black versions can be used as-is with the addition of permanently installed straps. Large busted dancers may find this bra too revealing but it available up to a 40DD.

“Seamless Plunge Stretch Lift” #16329D
Plunge bra with triangular center panel, but no band under the cups. This bra provides lift, but not as much "squeeze" as some other Wonderbra models. This is a full coverage bra and good for more modest dancers who want cleavage without bulging. Cup size seemed to run a bit small; try the next size up, especially if you plan on padding your bra to accentuate your shape. Available up to a 38D.