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In the Gypsy Style
First Published in The Belly Dancer Magazine October 2003
| Gypsy-fusion is one of the hottest looks in the dance world today. This vivacious costuming style is composed of design elements pulled from traditional folk costumes of Eastern and Southern Europe. The design vocabulary of the iconic Gypsy dancer bears little resemblance to the actual clothing of Rom peoples. Rather, this costuming style came together in the vaudeville shows and fine art depictions of Gypsy dancers that date to the second half of the 19th century. Our current Gypsy-fusion dance costume styling is highly influenced by the iconic Gypsy dancers presented by Hollywood during the hey-day of the musical from the 30’s through the 60’s. Elements of this style appear in other forms of dance including Flamenco and Ballet Folklorico de Mexico. |
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Contemporary belly dancers can pull from the menu of style elements to create their own unique costume ensembles. The peasant blouse has shrunk, covering the chest and arms, but leaving the torso exposed to allow freedom of movement. An abbreviated vest over the blouse gives the illusion of the fitted bodice and provides another layer of costuming to add color, texture as well as bust support. The skirt, though worn at the hip, continues to be full, and in this style, is composed of 3/4 circle panels with a deep flounce at the bottom. Accessories include the traditional bangles, head wrap, soft scarves worn around the hips and lots of fringe.
In Hollywood, the costume designer’s job is to create costumes that would allow the audience to instantly understand the social roll of each character. The Gypsy dancer costume was designed to fit into a set formula, which included a full skirt, peasant blouse, fitted vest or bodice, lace shawls and lots of fringe. Perhaps the most influential costume of this type was designed by Walter Plunkett for the 1948 “The Kissing Bandit” and worn by the incomparable dancer, Cyd Charisse. Her full skirts, peasant blouse, fitted vest and fringed shawl draped casually around her hips elegantly integrated all of the expected Gypsy design elements. Today, belly dancers use many of these established costuming conventions to create beautiful dancewear that suit the flavor current offerings of hot spicy Mediterranean fusion music that combines Latin sounds, Arabian rhythms and songs performed in a variety of languages.
In this beautiful costume rendering, Walter Plunkett designed a beautiful dancing dress for Cyd Charisse in the movie The Kissing Bandit. In this illustration you can see many of the elements of the Gypsy style reinvented for the big screen. The full-tiered underskirts, bright over skirt and fringe detail are all typical of Gypsy dancing girl costumes. The bodice, though tightly fitted, gives the impression of the peasant blouse with its full gathered sleeves and fluffy detail at the bust. Other details, such as the red headscarf, bangle bracelets and rose tucked into the bodice all support the Gypsy style.
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| Tiered and flounced skirts are the most essential Gypsy costume piece and skirt dancing is one of the hallmarks of the Gypsy dance style. Dancers skillfully manipulate the volume of fabric, lifting the edge of the skirt up and whipping it into arcs and swirls that sculpt the space around the dancer. Skirts can be as wide as 3 full circles or nearly 20 yards of fabric at the hem. Skirts worn higher, at or just below the waist extend the length to the floor and give even more fullness with witch to carve the air. The fitted vest-like bodice has been cropped to leave the abdomen exposed. Peasant blouses are cropped as well or replaced with a coin and fringe bra. |
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In this adorable image of a little dancing girl from a greeting card dating to the last quarter of the 19th century. Already, many of the iconic elements of the Gypsy style are present. The bright tiered skirt with fringed trim and multiple layers. A tambourine is the prop of choice in much Gypsy dancing girl imagery and in this picture; it’s a bright brilliant red. A loose peasant style blouse is topped with a fitted vest, a traditional folk costume style similar to the traditional wear of Eastern Europe.
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The Gypsy style can be very affordable. Lightweight cotton fabric, embellished with braid, ribbons and chainette fringe can result in beautiful, but budget conscious costumes. Peasant shirts are popular right now and commercial patterns are available such as a blouse pattern like Simplicity 5962 or even adapted from a “Gypsy Costume” like Mccalls #4653. Fitted vests can be modified from fitted vest patterns. Lower the neckline and raise the hem as desired. One excellent vest pattern is Folkwear #126. Directions for making a variety of full skirt styles can be found on many different websites or in costuming books such as “Skirting the Issues” which offers many different variations in the Gypsy style. More expensive and opulent Gypsy costumes include beautifully embellished bra and belt sets coated with coins, chain and jewelry pieces that become a versatile addition to any dancers wardrobe suitable for adding to tribal or fusion cabaret styles. Even the most sparkly beaded, sequined and rhinestoned bra and belt set can be integrated into a Gypsy flavored ensemble by pairing it with a fluffy flounced skirt. So, if you are looking for a new way to spice up your costuming style, add some Gypsy flavor to your wardrobe.
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 List of Gypsy Costume Design Elements
Full tiered, ruffled or flounced skirt
Soft hip-wraps with long fringe
Peasant blouse
Cropped fitted vests with braid or ribbon trim
Coin or Jewelry embellished bra and belt sets
Roses and rose patterned fabric
Black, red or brightly colored lace
Fringed Shawls
Hoop Earrings and bangle bracelets
Headscarves and headbands
Pokadot and paisley prints
Bright colors layered against each other
Black boots, character shoes or slippers
For more information about The Belly Dancer Magazine
visit Zaina Hart's website.
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